Powerglide Transmission Handbook
Carl H. Munroe
This complete reference guide to the Powerglide covers it all, from a stock rebuild to an all out race unit. Subjects covered include general transmission service, basic operation, in-car service and repairs; torque converter design and operation; identification; removal, disassembly and inspection; overhauling unit assemblies; final assembly transmission; the drag and circle track racing Powerglide; and much more. Includes over 500 photos and illustrations.

Part # HP1355
ISBN: 978-1-55788-355-1
EAN: 9781557883551 51995
UPC: 0 75478 01355 5 8 1/2" x 10 7/8" 160 pp. $19.95/$24.00 Can.inline_mediumwraptextright27232033/techarticles/0912cct_chevy_ford_small_block_big_block_engine_books0912cct_13_z+2010_automotive_catalog+transmission_handbook.jpgTrue

A gas tank is one of those things everyone needs for their truck. Overlooking low capacity, the main problem with the stock gas tank in most classic pickups is it's usually mounted in the cab, and that means it's dangerous. Remember in 1963 when a sect of Buddhist monks poured gasoline over one of their own and then he lit himself on fire? Not a pretty picture, but it's pretty much the same scenario for anyone unfortunate enough to get trapped in an older truck where the gas tank behind the seat ruptured in an accident, or the owner is a careless smoker. Moving on to a more pleasant aspect is the improved range one achieves for their pickup after they have installed a higher-capacity gas tank.inline_mediumwraptextrightRock Valley will fabricate just about any size or shape gas tank you might need, and they've built tens of thousands of them over the past 30 years.26729551/techarticles/0911cct_how_to_build_a_custom_gas_tank0911cct_03_z+how_to_build_a_custom_gas_tank+custom_fabricated_tank.jpgTrue

There's no two ways about it, the more comfortable your classic truck is to drive the more you are going to enjoy driving it. Right from the get-go the plan for my '79 C10, known as the Americruise truck, was to ultimately end up with a classic truck that could hold its own with the best of today's modern highway machines. This means not only in acceleration, braking, and handling, but the comfort level in the cab as well.inline_mediumwraptextright25613210/techarticles/0911cct_1979_chevy_c10_led_taillight_conversion_kit_install0911cct_01_z+1979_chevy_c10_led_taillight_conversion_kit_install+modern_parts.jpgTrue

Back when show rods and wild custom cars and trucks were at their height, circa late '50s to early '60s, builders spared no expense in creativity. Their art, expression of one's self, vision, or whatever you want to call it, began with the exterior of the vehicle and flowed into the interior. Long story short, onlookers got to see a wide array of designs and techniques being applied, for better or worse, being at the forefront.inline_mediumwraptextrightNo, that's not get Get Shorty's, but these seats were made using the same technique described in the story, and they will look somewhat similar to this style when all is said and done.25625285/techarticles/0911cct_custom_seats_center_console_build0911cct_01_z+custom_seats_center_console_build+future_look_of_project_car.jpgTrue

Like many of the trucks seen in Custom Classic Trucks, our F-1 has undergone suspension modifications and the original I-beam and worm-and-sector steering gear were given the heave-ho in favor of a Mustang II IFS and rack-and-pinion. While the suspension and steering installation were satisfactory, the same couldn't be said for the steering column-the recycled Mercury column was not only ugly, but it was too close to the driver door and, worst of all, the U-joints were of questionable health, weren't phased properly and had been welded to the intermediate shaft. To make things right it meant starting all over.inline_mediumwraptextrightWe updated our F-1 with a new Flaming River tilt steering column equipped with an ignition switch and shifter. It’s topped by a Flaming River leather-wrapped steering wheel. The original instruments were restored and updated to 12 volts by Williamson’s Instrument Repair.30979398/techarticles/0911cct_ford_f1_flaming_river_tilt_column_install0911cct_01_z+ford_f1_flaming_river_tilt_column_install+performance_steering_column.jpgTrue

En-Gauging
Classic Instruments new gauge panel for '67-72 Chevy trucks is one of the latest in a long line of bolt-in-style gauge packages from the Michigan company. Available in nine different series, each set consists of a 5-inch 140-mph speedometer and 8,000-rpm tach, a 3-inch clock, and 2-inch fuel level, water temperature, oil pressure, and voltmeter gauges. Featuring polished stainless bezels and flat glass, the gauges are mounted in a reproduction '67-72 Chevy truck housing with stock turn signal indicators mounted and wired and precut holes for the headlight and wiper switch.

Classic Instruments
(800) 575-0461
www.classicinstruments.cominline_mediumwraptextright26740744/techarticles/0911cct_november_2009_classic_truck_parts0911cct_07_z+november_2009_classic_truck_parts+aftermarket_gauge_system.jpgTrue

There's any number of reasons to switch the gauge cluster on a '73-87 Chevrolet C10 or GMC truck. In the case of the '79 C10 Chevrolet Big 10 CCT readers know as the Americruise truck it was for several reasons. The first reason goes back to a 1985 Cadillac Eldorado I owned in the '90s that had the digital dash cluster option. Reflecting on what I really liked about the Eldo's digital gauge cluster was how precise the readings were, and how easy they were to see. For example, the oil-pressure would read 23 lbs pressure at idle cold and then drop like a stone to 7 or 8 lbs if the Caddy's poor little underpowered 4.1 V-8 was running hot. Looking to the Cad's speedometer and tachometer would reveal exactly how many revs the engine was turning at exactly how many miles per hour. Add this to the fact that the Caddy gauges were easy to read in any kind of light and it becomes clear why I chose a Dakota Digital cluster for my '79 C10, but this is just the tip of the iceberg.

If you're a customized classic truck aficionado there probably aren't too many challenges related to building one that you find intimidating. And while we like to put ourselves in that "willing to try anything once category" the truth is one thing we've always been hesitant to attempt is installing a windshield. Let's face it, glass is weird stuff-how can it be tough and fragile at the same time? And how do you deal with something that is both?inline_mediumwraptextrightHere's a Custom Classic Trucks quiz. Which of the tools shown are used to install a windshield? If you picked the hand cleaner and cord you're ready to proceed. If you picked the hammer, crow bar, or pry bar, put the rubber down and back away from the glass.30575340/techarticles/0910cct_ford_f1_windshield_replacement0910cct_01_o+ford_f1_windshield_replacement+propper_tools.jpgTrue

All in all, the '53 Ford F-100 we rounded up as a body donor to drop on top of the '56 F-100 chassis we've been covering in a continuing tech series was in pretty good shape. That said, the '53 did have rust damage typical of any '53-56 F-100 pickup exposed to the elements for over half a century. Once one begins to familiarize themselves with this series of Ford truck they learn where to look for rust. The first area to rust is on the passenger side cowl, right below the fresh-air intake louvers. The deterioration process begins as soon as the louvers draw in air. The dirtier the air, like encountered on dirt roads or blown in a dust storm, the faster dirt accumulates in the area below the hinge pocket. Then when the rains come the louvers allow water to enter and the dirt turns to mud. The moisture in the mud typically lasts for months before it dries thoroughly and that's all it takes to invite rust. Next in line to rust out are the cab corners. It's basically the same situation, first dirt gets trapped at the bottom of the corners and then water leaks in. If the truck spent its life in the rustbelt where the roads are salted in the wintertime the rust problem probably began to rear its ugly head over four decades ago.inline_mediumwraptextright30577722/techarticles/0910cct_1953_ford_f100_cab_corner_replacement0910cct_01_o+1953_ford_f100_cab_corner_replacement+detached_cab.jpgTrue

What A Concept!
Concept One has extended its range of pulley systems to include a new, compact line for the venerable Ford Cleveland 351. With a choice of four systems for the Cleveland, ranging from a basic alternator-only pulley kit up to a full-option solution with alternator, air conditioning compressor, and power steering mechanism, these kits comprise all associated pulleys and brackets, belts, and chrome hardware. In addition, a polished compressor and alternator and an aluminum power-steering pump are supplied together with Concept One's exclusive power-steering reservoir to complete the package. Offered in clear or black anodized finish, the 6061-T6 aircraft-grade aluminum pulley kits run twin belts with the standard rotation water pump on this Cleveland kit, eliminating expense and unnecessary bulkiness of extra parts. With an emphasis on quality, the parts fit and align with no shimming or grinding.inline_mediumwraptextright26228371/techarticles/0910cct_october_2009_classic_truck_parts0910cct_01_z+concept_one+ford_pulley_system.jpgTrue

Shining Bright
Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Detailer proved a hit when it was released a few months ago, thanks in no small part to its relentless water beading properties, and now the company looks to hit another home run with Ultimate Quik Wax, which features the same technology with the added protection of an easy to apply spray wax. When Quik Detailer becomes hard to wipe off, it's time for a coat of Quik Wax. The result of the product's amazing water repellency is a deep show-car shine that lasts through numerous washes. Unlike most spray waxes, it won't leave a white residue on plastic and trim either.

Black is one of those colors that always seem to be at the center of controversy. A good example is some folks can't even agree whether black should officially be called a color or not. Those people are the ones who abide by light theory where black is considered to be the absence of all color. Jump to the other side of the fence and the pigment theory crowd believe black is the presence of all color. We'd have to side with the pigment theorists, because it doesn't take a nuclear proctologist to see black accurately reflects every color in the rainbow without distorting the individual color's hue. OK, that's enough of the artsy talk, let's move on to how to get your truck's black paint to look its best. It's easy to make a dulled finish shine by rubbing it out with rubbing compound or using a cleaner wax that removes oxidation, but it's another story when it comes to doing it without leaving a bunch of swirl marks. All colors can get swirl marks, but white is the color that shows them the least. Naturally it makes sense that as the colors get darker they are more likely to reveal swirl marks. This brings us right back to black, which the hardest color to avoid leaving swirl marks in. Speaking in the first person, I love black paintjobs and own my share of black vehicles. The truck I used to do this story is my Barn Find '56 Ford that came from the factory in Raven Black single stage alkyd enamel. My '05 GMC, '94 Z28 Camaro, and '03 Harley-Davidson are all done in two-stage black with a clear topcoat. The trait these finishes all hold in common is when they get a deep scratch or chip the results are always a white-colored blemish appears.

From its earliest beginnings in 1902 as an automobile manufacturer, Holley has been all about creating carburetors that offer a greater level of performance. Half a century later in 1952, when the first four-barrel carburetors were introduced to the market on Cadillac V-8s. They were the Carter WCFB and Rochester 4GC and found their way onto Chevrolet passenger car V-8s as a performance option when the 265-inch small-block engine was introduced in 1955. The four-barrel Power Pack option included better flowing "pyramid" heads with a 9.5:1 compression ratio compared to the standard 8.5:1 compression ratio equipped with a Rochester two-barrel carburetor. On the other side of the fence, Ford offered a Holley four-barrel carburetor as a performance option for the Y-block V-8. In 1956, Ford was the first manufacturer to introduce light-duty trucks available with a high-performance engine option. Surpassing the '56 Chevy trucks, offered only with a detuned version of the passenger car 265-inch V-8, Ford made the larger 272-inch Y-block engine available in three stages of tune. The standard option V-8 is known as the light-duty 2V 272 (two-venturi, two-barrel carb), and the truck's original engine can be identified by locating a V in the VIN number on the aluminum serial number tag held on with four Phillips screws located above the lower hinge pocket on the driver side. If the tag is missing, as they often are, look for the VIN number stamped into the topside of the passenger-side framerail right in front of the firewall. If all else fails look at the VIN number printed on the pink slip (title).

In last month's issue of CCT we followed along as Carmen made a one-man show out of chopping the top on his Big-Window '57 Chevrolet pickup. The key to Carmen's success was researching what he wanted to do, and then not getting in a hurry when it was time for the axe to fall. In this month's edition we're tagging along with Carmen as he shaves the driprails off, and gets the '57 just one more step closer to being the truck of his dreams. That said, there were a few nightmares along the way that Carmen uncovered, but his tried-and-true method of moving slow, and taking it all in before he made the next move paid off. So, before you guys jump out into the garage and tear into shaving your cab's driprails, take a deep breath, and don't whack too far with the first cuts, and don't get carried away with the MIG welder and warp the living snot out of things.

Let's face it, wiring a customized classic truck can be one of the most daunting aspects of a build for the uninitiated or even the more-able hobbyist. When do I use a relay? What gauge wire should I run? What size fuse should I use? Why do I keep blowing fuses? What happens when I run out of room on my fuse panel? These are all problems I've had in the past and questions that have left me scratching my head and searching for answers. Fortunately, there are a number of companies that provide not only technical support for us homebuilders, but also provide a plethora of products that solve each and every one of these problems. From complete wiring harnesses to extra fuse panels to individual relays to technical literature, the answers are out there to simplify and solve your wiring woes. But one thing that has always been a constant when it came to wiring a truck was the need for a large, unencumbered wiring harness. A standard 16-fuse system in the past entailed wiring each individual load to the respective switch as well as to the fuse panel. This meant that with vehicles with numerous items at the rear, such as stereo equipment or air ride suspension components, lights and EFI fuel system requirements, suffered from a bulky set of wires that passed three-quarters the length of the vehicle. That usually left the upholsterer with a large clump that had to be hidden under carpet and upholstery, resulting in a rather unsightly and inaccessible wiring situation.

Braking Out
While it can't be denied that good brakes are as, if not more, important than the horsepower under your hood, and that they should perform well, as with everything else when it comes to custom trucks, appearance is important too. Bendix Street HP calipers are designed to deliver performance while looking good too, and are supplied with all the necessary hardware. Available in red, black or yellow, the powdercoating is applied immediately before final assembly, rather than post-assembly, resulting in a better finish than paint.
Whether you use the Bendix calipers or not, you could do worse than install a set of Bendix CT-3 ceramic brake pads, engineered to eliminate noise and reduce dusting, while providing OEM quality and performance. Several applications are shimmed with insulators and feature angled chamfers and slots to reduce noise.
Bendix
(800) 247-2125
www.bendix.com

Have you ever noticed how once a project truck hits the road progress slows down-or comes to a complete halt-or maybe even takes a few steps backwards? That's the way it was with this F-1. Purchased as a driver already equipped with a fuel injected small-block Ford, AOD, 8.8 rear, and a Mustang II frontend, the truck just needed a few finishing touches and some TLC to be primo-instead it just got driven for a decade. Despite its rough edges it was fun to drive-but enough is enough. When more and more springs started poking through the seat, the occasional drip of water down the dash when driving in the winter rain turned to a steady stream and the summertime temperature in the cab was roughly the same as under the hood, it was time for action.

There's no doubt in my mind that if we were to poll CCT readers as to what their favorite truck is, the '67-72 Chevy would edge its way near the top, if not the top of the list. It seems this poster child has climbed its way into the realm of the '32 Ford in the hot rod world (Editor's note: That's Cody's opinion, I still say the '56 Ford F-100 is king!) and the '69 Camaro in the muscle car crowd. Taking things a step further, if we were to break down and hold a separate poll between the '67-69 and '70-72 models, the early style front end would trump its stepbrother three fold. Reason being: folks like the early-style hood better.

7. NMF
The abbreviation NMF spelled out means natural metal finishes, and when we're talking customized classic trucks it pertains to leaving aluminum, stainless steel, brass, or copper in its natural state. In the truest sense natural state means an unpolished raw form or stretching the expression polished to the highest sheen possible. Maintenance and care of polished and unpolished metals requires two completely different techniques. For unpolished metals a cleaner should be used and for polished a metal polish must be used. Whether it's a cleaner or polish the label on the product container will specify (list) appropriate use.

That old adage "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" is true, and when it comes to your truck's cooling system it only takes 22 ounces of radiator flush, plus a couple gallons of antifreeze to save yourself from a ton of trouble and expense in the future. Even for a classic truck that sees only a little bit of use in the summertime, and then sits parked in a warm garage all winter long is subject to extensive damage caused by rust and corrosion. Who among us at one time or another hasn't had their weekend cruise ruined because a rusted-out freeze plug let go in the hardest part to reach, or a water pump sprung a leak? Starting at the radiator, entering the engine through the aluminum thermostat housing, every metal in the entire cooling system that gets wet is subject to damage. Throw a set of aluminum alloy heads on top of a cast-iron block with an aluminum intake manifold, and that's a guarantee. In the case of an expensive engine with rare parts or even for someone who just wants to make sure their truck is ready to roll when the weather is right, flushing the cooling system and topping it off with the right concentration of antifreeze is cheap insurance. Notice we said the right concentration of antifreeze, that's because too much can be almost as harmful as not enough. Thanks to the folks at Prestone, determining whether or not your cooling system has the right amount of antifreeze coursing its veins only adds around $6.00 to the total expense. The device resembles a hydrometer used to test specific gravity in an automobile battery, and works in much the same way. The black rubber bulb is squeezed and then let go to suck in enough antifreeze to fill the tester's chamber all the way to the line at top, and then the red needle will point on the scale to indicate the reading. On one side the scale indicates the boiling point, and on the other side freezing. In addition, the Prestone tester's clear-plastic construction allows a visual inspection of the coolant to look for rust and contaminants. Indications of a rust color mixed with a pale green solution and metallic flakes means you are a neglectful owner and your truck should be taken away from you. No, we're just kidding, but it is time to do something about it before severe damage occurs, if it hasn't already.