Without a doubt, Ford’s 9-inch axle assembly has been the No. 1 choice for a performance rearend for a long time. The reasons were obvious enough—they were strong, plentiful, and affordable. A wide range of gear ratios was available, and the Hotchkiss-style dropout center section made gear changes relatively easy, especially when compared to axles that used integral carriers, like the Dana and 12-bolt Chevy.

After getting our ’64 Chevy home and checking it out from end to end we were convinced it was a solid truck. Sure, the floors need some work, and it has the usual assortment of small dings and dents old trucks collect. And then there was an odd little rust hole in the front of the hood, but it didn’t appear to be too serious. Since fixing the hood appeared to be the easiest repair to make we started on it first, little did we know what was in store.

There are a number of arguments as to why it’s a good idea to move a stock, cab-located fuel tank to an alternate location. Safety, comfort, and space probably being the top three. But there are a few other things to consider as well that just might convince you why it’s not just a good idea, but a great idea.

We all know hot trucks are cool. On the other hand, trucks that run hot aren’t cool. There’s nothing worse than steam coming out from under the hood of your prized pickup while boiling coolant pours onto the ground. Overheating can be an inconvenience or a catastrophe depending on when and where, and to what degree (no pun intended) overheating takes place. But the fact is, with a properly designed cooling system, overheating should not be a problem.

Some of the biggest complaints from any truck owner still utilizing the stock suspension components are likely to stem from the steering system. The old worm and sector boxes under many an old truck are especially susceptible to poor performance given their requirement for regular maintenance and adjustment over the years, which was seldom performed. This results in a box with a ton of play, tight spots, and an overall unsafe situation. Over the years, the options were few and far between. Either you replaced the box completely with another used box or you did what a number of other truck owners had done and simply lived with it. Neither option was really a solution as the replacement box was likely just as bad as the original and that’s if you could even find one as the sources dried up over the years.

Shortening the frame of a longbed truck down to the specs of a shortbed isn't exactly a new idea, in fact, we've even done just that in years' past. But with the availability of shortbed trucks drying up or going for big dollars while longbed trucks can be had for pennies on the dollar, it's a good thing to revisit from time to time to remind people that there are other options than spending $12k on a starter truck.

When it comes to updating the front suspension of Chevy pickups there are a host of options to choose from, so we thought long and hard about what to put under our latest acquisition, a '64 C10 Fleetside. As it often happens, the more we thought about what we wanted, the more we wanted-a sentiment echoed by readers responding to our thoughts on such things in the January issue of CCT.

Back when I originally had Currie rebuild the 12-bolt rear in our '68 project, I opted to go simple with a stock Ford drum brake setup. Why a Ford drum brake you might ask? If you look back at the original buildup (CCT Nov, 2012), you'll remember we took the C-clip axles out and replaced them with beefier Ford items. This required welding Ford-style axle flanges onto the Chevy housing, which dictates using Ford 9-inch style brakes, be it disc or drum. With the pending LS install, I thought it was only fitting to bring the rear brakes into the 21st century so that the truck could stop as well as it could accelerate.

I'll be the first to admit that making custom brake lines from scratch is not one of my favorite tasks when it comes to screwing a custom build together. I've never had good luck with any of the cheaper brake flaring tools and it's frustrating to say the least when the time comes to bleed the system and it leaks like a screen door on a submarine. That's usually when I resort to buying prefabricated lines from the local auto parts house and making them fit as best as I can. An extra loop here or a jog there usually gets the job done in an acceptable manner and I don't have to deal with putting flares on the ends.

Regardless if you are building a new ride from scratch or simply enhancing your existing one, there’s always time to improve its original factory design. Some of the most common updates used are to bolster both performance and safety, which can easily be seen through engine swaps, the addition of disc brakes, and rack-and-pinion steering. One of the simplest bolt-on improvements you can make is by replacing your tired old door latches with newly designed units for added protection.

Sprucing up the bed of a truck should be at the top of any owner’s priority list when it comes to necessary upgrades. But oftentimes, it’s one of the last items to receive any attention. Cost could be one reason for this, as a bed wood kit can get pricey and there is a bit of labor involved in removing the old and installing the new. The difference between a busted up bed floor and one that’s been massaged is night and day, however, and the results don’t have to break the bank or take more than a day to complete.

Last month, we gave you guys a sneak peek inside the usually closed doors over at Foose Design in order to check out the F-100 Chip and the boys were building to celebrate WD-40’s 60th anniversary. The idea was to create a truck that reflected what the crew at Rocket Chemical Company might have used to haul around their newly developed product back in the early ’50s, with a twist of course.

Back in the December, 2012 issue of CUSTOM CLASSIC TRUCKS we introduced Art Morrison’s new chassis for ’47 to first-series ’55 Chevy pickups. Like everything that comes out of the Morrison operation, the new chassis is beautifully crafted, gives these trucks a ground-hugging profile, and will make some in the Pro Touring ranks wonder how they just got spanked by an old pickup truck.

While most people wouldn’t associate comfort with old trucks, there’s really no reason why that shouldn’t be so. Sure they didn’t come equipped with as many creature comforts as their passenger car brethren did from the factory, but that’s no reason why they can’t be equally, if not more comfortable. All it takes is a little bit of work to get that cab to be as quiet, comfortable, and luxurious as any contemporary vehicle.

That’s Jason Scudellari piloting Craig Morrison’s ’50 Chevy pickup through the slalom gauntlet during a recent track test as I hang on for dear life. This shot was taken seconds after I nearly landed in Jason’s lap as we entered the course, prompting the laughter that is visible on our goofy faces and Jason sending the first coupla’ cones flying. I was caught up trying to shoot video and didn’t realize my lap belt wasn’t very tight, allowing me to slide across the cab of the truck when Jason yanked the wheel to the left after entering the course. The five-point harnesses Craig installed in his truck would once again play a role in our amusement as it held Jason safely in the cab as the driver’s door swung open during later slalom testing. Worry not however, as I was watching a safe distance away on the sidelines.

So you’ve just washed, waxed, detailed, and dialed in that classic beauty and she’s never looked better. The problem is, if you park it outside, that spotless treatment is never going to last. And if you park it in the garage, what’s going to keep the myriad of stuff that gets stored in there that shouldn’t be from bumping into your priceless ride? We all wish we could cast a bubble ’round our beloved rides to protect them from all the various elements that they get bombarded with once parked, but unfortunately, we can’t.

I have to admit that the thought of pulling the proven 307ci V-8 / T5 transmission combo in my C10 is something that gives me great hesitation. It’s provided me with thousands of trouble-free miles as a daily driver as well as churning out a few thousand highway miles to Bonneville and back.

Like most CUSTOM CLASSIC TRUCKS devotees, we’re usually thinking about the next project before the current one is finished. So even before we put the final touches on our Hot Rod Hauler, the search was on for something else to build. Thanks to our buddy, Paul Willis, we found a real diamond in the rough—a ’64 Chevy C10 Fleetside pickup that came to rest in a wrecking yard without an engine, but with a title.

When the guys at WD-40 and Foose Design told us they were building an F-100 to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the original multi-use product at this year’s SEMA show, we jumped at the chance to be involved. With one of the greatest automotive designers onboard, it was sure to be a smash success.

There are a few options for C10 owners when it comes to gas tank relocation, but they all seem to have one drawback or another. Be it mounting location, size, fitment issues, or filler location, rarely does one find that what's available facilitates his or her every need. Most of this is due to the fact that what's available is based on a different make or model. Gas tanks from similar vintage Blazer and Suburban trucks seem to be the most commonly used for '67-up C10 pickups, but their larger size means that they can hang a bit lower than may be desired. There also exists the issue of what to do with the filler. These tanks are often not fully baffled like a late-model tank, an issue that can cause problems when fitting a tank-mounted fuel pump, which is common in EFI systems.

As a fit-for-television hoarder of ol’ trucks, yours truly is already deep into a pair of personal pickup projects, and surrounded by others (some already scattered) waiting their turn for attention. With numerous skeletons in the ol’ closet, I do feel guilty. Even so, there’s nothing quite like tearing into yet another truck.

Art Morrison’s reputation with drag racers started to grow in the ’60s. He was known for being crazy enough to drive a wheelstander, talented enough to build a chassis for many NHRA record-setting Competition Eliminator cars, and savvy enough to create Art Morrison Enterprises to design, manufacture, and market chassis components and build turnkey race cars. He was also known to be a nice guy with a perpetual smile on his face.

In the opinion of many enthusiasts, the 1956 Ford pickup was one of the best-looking trucks to ever roll out of the Ford factory—and the most desirable of those were equipped with the optional big back window.

When choosing an engine to upgrade the performance of your classic truck there are a staggering number of options available from both major manufacturers as well as aftermarket engine rebuilders. Your choice depends on what you are trying to accomplish, be it a fire-breathing, blown big-block or a streetable, fuel-injected small-block.

When it comes to upgrading the interior of a classic truck, the crown jewel of upgrades has got to be a new gauge cluster. As the centerpiece of the dash, it’s one of the few things that receive constant attention from the driver. That said, there are two good reasons to update those old gauges. One, who wants to look at a bunch of faded, blurry gauges? And two, if the gauge cluster is going to transmit the vital details of your engine compartment, shouldn’t it be done in a precise manner?